Mont dieu!

Ever since man discovered gravity the inhabitants of Chamonix have been trying to harness it in ever more terrifying ways.

As a result this peaceful French town beneath the towering granite buttresses of Mont Blanc has become an unsurpassed, year-round playground for mountain thrill seekers. This is a skier’s ski resort where the carve of your turn is more important than the cut of your ski suit and we like it that way (sorry Courchevel). Of course you can take a gentler pace and drink in all that dramatic scenery but keep an eye skywards in case some crazy paraglider lands on you. Put simply, Chamonix is the most accessible, most exciting and most wildly beautiful destination in the Alps.

When to go
Most Alpine resorts are ghost towns in summer but Chamonix is a year-round destination. Strangely one of the few times it’

s quiet is also one of the best times to visit: in October the forests turn spectacular shades or red and amber.

Getting there
Chamonix is just over an hour from Geneva Airport. If you live in London then consider Swiss Airlines from City Airport. If you get a hire car then get this on the Swiss side of the airport. Alternatively there are loads of transfer companies including Cham Express and Alpy Bus.

Getting around
This is not a ski-in/ski-out resort but you’

re normally only a short distance from the nearest lift. There is a good bus network in town which is free with a ski pass or hotel card. The Mont Blanc Express train route is very scenic but not particularly practical.

See
The ski areas
Chamonix has almost 100 miles of piste and because 90 per cent are above 2000m the conditions are far more reliable here. The ski area is divided up into five separate areas so you have a decision to make each morning. Firstly, although Chamonix attracts a disproportionate number of lunatics, beginners needn’

t feel left out; the pistes of Le Tour and Vallorcine at the top of the valley are gentle and often uncrowded. The Grands Montets area is the biggest area and has plenty of challenging runs and great off-piste options while the routes down through the forests of the Les Houches area are the most picturesque.

Mont Blanc
Above Chamonix the glaciers tumble down the northern flanks of Mont Blanc which, at 4800 metres, is the highest mountain in Western Europe. You’ll need professional equipment, a guide and a lot of stamina to climb the mountain but you can get to 3800 metres the easy way via the Aiguille du Midi cable car. It’

s hard not to smirk as you pass the mountaineers on the slopes below. Catch the lift through the solid rock to the final viewing platform for a spectacular Alpine panorama.

La Vallée Blanche
This is the Holy Grail for those with lots of courage and very little awareness of personal safety. You have to overcome the toughest challenge before you’ve even had a chance to put your skis on; the 17-kilometre off-piste run starts at the Aiguille du Midi with a terrifying walk along a knife-edge ridge with a 2000-metre drop on one side. The route eventually descends to the Mer de Glace glacier (try not to fall in a crevasse). The Vallée Blanche is busiest on Fridays so plan accordingly if you want solitude or safety in numbers. If you have any doubts (or sanity) you’

ll be wise to take a mountain guide. You can never be too careful. Look what happened to James the last time he went skiing (nice suit, James):

La Mer de Glace
There is another more sedate way to reach the glacier. Catch the vintage funicular railway up the mountainside to the terrace of the Montenvers Hotel and enjoy the view across the ice to the serrated peaks of Les Drus and Les Grands Jorasses.

Hiking trails
The mountains are criss-crossed by hiking trails and the forest routes down from the Montenvers Hotel are a relatively easy introduction. Another particular favourite of ours is the path up from the small lake at Col des Montets which is particularly beautiful in autumn. The most famous trail in the region is the Haute Route. It goes all the way at high altitude to Zermatt in Switzerland and takes ten to 12 days and according to a friend of ours is ‘bloody knackering’

.

Switzerland and Italy
Take the scenic Mont Blanc Express over the border to Martigny in Switzerland where you can enjoy the wonderful artwork at the Fondation Pierre Gianadda. Alternatively it’s an even shorter trip through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Italy. There are hot springs and a spa at Pré-Saint-Didier. What’s more the ice cream is better on this side of the mountain. Jim once drove all the way to Aosta for dessert (how very flash). It’s possible to ski into Italy via the Aiguille du Midi and the Vallée Blanche tramway to the Helbronner border point. Whatever you do don’

t forget your passport.

Mountain sports
Even now, devilish minds are dreaming up new ways to enjoy the mountains. In winter you can try heliskiing, paragliding, husky mushing and snowshoeing while in summer there’

s rafting, mountaineering, canyoning, hydrospeeding and loonyzooming (OK, we made that last one up). Evolution 2 offer pretty much every sport you can dare to dream of.

Sleep
Les Chalets de Philippe
This is simply the most spectacular place we’ve found in the Alps. Not only is the location perfect but the hamlet of chalets recreated by theatrical designer Philippe Lambert is idyllic. Every antique-filled interior and every little luxury has evidently been considered down to the smallest detail. The chalets range in size and if it’s possible to have a favourite we’

d go for Les Barattes which sleeps four and looks like a massive cuckoo clock.
Les Chalets de Philippe, 718 Route du Chapeau - Le Lavancher, Chamonix
+ 33 (0)6 07 23 17 26

The Clubhouse
This is the coolest, funkiest hotel in town. It feels like a bit of bohemian London airlifted into the French Alps - which isn’t surprising as it’

s owned by the same people who run Milk & Honey in Soho. The bedrooms are very sexy (to the point of having sex toys in the mini bar), particularly the Myla Suite, and you wake up with a view of the mountain peaks. For a more modest budget you can get the cool without the sexy in one of three bunk rooms, where sex toys are not included.
The Clubhouse, 74 Promenade des Sonnailles, Chamonix
+33 (0)4 50 90 96 56

Le Refuge
Chalets are normally rented by the week rather than the weekend but as Chamonix has some breath-taking chalets (often with some equally breath-taking price tags attached) we thought we‘d mention Le Refuge. Set in the peaceful enclave of Les Nants, with great views of the Mont Blanc Massif, Le Refuge has plenty of traditional Alpine style and comfort but won’t send your finances into the deep freeze. The price isn’t all-inclusive so you can pick and choose which extras you want. The chalet sleeps six although the open-plan mezzanine bedroom (where the freestanding bath is) doesn’

t give much privacy.
Le Refuge, 350 Clos Des Nants, Chamonix
0778 698 3789

Eat and Drink
Hameau Albert 1er
If anyone asks me which is the best restaurant I’ve ever eaten in the answer is the Albert Premier Hotel. Michelin starred twice over, this is a faultlessly refined gastronomic treat you‘

ll remember for years to come. The diners are rendered almost mute in wonder - although that might be the shock of the bill. That said, the 14-course taster menu is worth every Eurocent (and is the only thing on the menu written in English).
Hameau Albert 1er, 119 Impasse du Montenvers, Chamonix
+33 (0)4 50 53 05 09

Atmosphère
The rather unprepossessing entrance reveals a great town-centre restaurant directly overlooking the Arve River. Book a table next to the windows above the water. The menu focuses on Savoyard and French food, including some excellent game dishes in autumn and winter.
Restaurant Atmosphère, 123 Place Balmat, Chamonix
+33 (0)4 50 55 97 97

La Cabane des Praz
This chic restaurant overlooking the golf course is ideal for lunch on the terrace in the summer or by the cosy fire in the winter. The menu features regional specialities like tartiflette and fondue and you can try your hand at the curious local practice of cooking strips of beef, turkey or duck on hot stones.
La Cabane des Praz, Route du Golf, Les Praz, Chamonix
+33 (0)4 50 53 23 27

La Bergerie
If you’re looking for a great spot for lunch on the slopes then point your skis towards this mountain restaurant in the Brévent ski area at the top of the Planpraz telepherique. The views of Mont Blanc are stupendous. We’d recommend the cassoulet. If you go for the tripe sausages you’

re on your own.
+33 (0)4 50 53 05 42

Chambre Neuf
If you like your aprés-ski to feature burgers, nachos, live music and dancing on the tables then come to this place near the train station between 5pm and 8pm. It’

s great fun but Lord knows where people get the energy from after a day on the slopes. I must be getting old.
Chambre Neuf, 272 Avenue Michel Croz, Chamonix
+33 (0)4 50 55 89 81

MBC
This Canadian-run micro-brewery is another good bar where you can quaff their Stout des Drus, Granite Pale Ale or Blonde de Chamonix. There’

s live music on several evenings of the week during the winter.
Micro Brasserie de Chamonix, 350 Route de Bouchet, Chamonix
+33 (0)4 50 53 61 59

Auberge au Bois Prin
It’s probably best not to eat here on your first night, or you won’t want to eat anywhere else. The €

34 four-course daily-changing menu is exceptional value, even with the current exchange rate. The menu is dominated by Alpine specialities and most of the ingredients are locally sourced or home grown.
Auberge du Bois Prin, 69 Chemin de l’hermine, Les Moussoux, Chamonix
+33 (0)4 50 53 33 51